ANISSA RATNA PUTRI

Autumn in Kyoto city is always crowded with tourists looking for momiji (maple leaves) in temples. To avoid the crowd, I decided to go to Mount Takao - where an 6-9km hiking trail with momiji trees and a crystal clear river is around. Turns out, the scenery is magnificent! Here is the story of our hiking date in Kiyotaki Hiking Trail.

To reach Mount Takao, we took JR Bus heading to Takao from the nearest bus stop. For a tourist, the JR Bus to Mount Takao is available from Kyoto Station. Be minded though, in this autumn season, JR Bus can be very crowded. While waiting for the bus, there were three buses that didn't mind stopping at the bus stop where we were waiting because inside it's already packed with people. For me, I had to re-route my trip to a bus stop in the middle of nowhere because here they have two bus options to Mount Takao: JR Bus and Kyoto city bus no.8 (Yes, Bus no.8 also available from Shijo Karasuma to Mount Takao). After the one hour trip becomes two hours because of the waiting time, we finally made it to Takao! 

Note: As of November 2018, for those of you who wish to see Jingo-ji Temple before heading to the hiking trail, it is suggested to get off at Makino instead of Yamashirotakao because the track to Jingo-ji from Yamashirotakao is said to be closed because of the previous Typhoon No.21 (Jebi).

Our first beautiful scenery was the red bridge surrounded by the mixed color of autumn leaves. When we look downward, we saw an enchanting turquoise-color river of Kiyotaki. After some snaps, we walked to Jingo-ji Temple. Here around Jingo-ji, there are various restaurants open for tourists - both downhill near the river and upside hill near the entrance of Jingo-ji. If you want to enter the temple, it costs 600yen. As for us, we went uphill but didn't enter the temple - we took a rest in an open-air restaurant named Kaishitei (硯石亭) instead. Even though we didn't enter Jingo-ji, we didn't regret at all climbing those steps. The momiji here is so beautiful!

Finished with our brunch session, we went back downhill through a different route. We continued to climb a little towards the temple, and then turn left downhill. The route was leading back to the same entrance we went to, eventually. From here, we started our hiking track. A bit warning for everyone who will start hiking from here - it's better to go to the toilet before starting to hike. There is no toilet in between the hiking track (about 5-6 km ahead), and it was a bit of problem for us that day.

As we walked through the hiking track, we realized the crowd becomes less and less. Apparently, not all people who went to Jingo-ji will go to the hiking track. Thus I would say for those who don't want to go hiking, you can still go to Takao and having lunch + momiji sightseeing around Jingo-ji! Then, you can go back from the same arrival point using JR Bus/Kyoto city bus no.8. 

Back to the hiking track - I would say the hiking road is not 100% a smooth path as you might expect from a Japanese touristy object. There were some rocky and slippery roads, so make sure you use proper shoes (doesn't have to be hiking shoes, but at least sports shoes). Although people said Japanese forests - include this one in Takao, maybe - are re-planted after the real one exploited, but the scenery looks real enough for me. Through the path, there were greeneries with some autumn colors trees pop up. Pine trees are lining up in our right and left side created a walking tunnel for us. Big rocks and a clear river is our best company during the walk. There are even some points in the track where we can go down walking in the rocks around the river. 

After about an hour walking, we found a space where people having a picnic. Looks like this place is built for hikers to take a rest. There were tables and bench nearby the river, but you may also sit on the grass with your picnic mat if you prefer to (and don't bother if you don't bring one, just sit anywhere you like). A perfect place to have lunch before continue hiking.

An hour later from the lunch spot, we arrived in a bridge near to Atago Shrine. Here, there are parking spots, public toilets (finally!!), and bus stop. The place looks like the end point of the hiking track. However, I insisted to search for a place that my friend took a picture on. Turns out, it takes two bridges downhill from the first bridge near Atago Shrine to find the scenery that I was looking for. Thus, after you meet the first bridge, don't stop yet! Go down to the river, or go through the local houses to the next of the next bridge in front of you. There's beautiful scenery await!

Having the wanted scenery snapped, we walked uphill to the bus stop. I and Rizky almost took the bus, but later decided to continue walking instead - despite having a challenge in front of us: Kiyotaki Tunnel. To pass the route from Kiyotaki trail to Arashiyama, we have to pass the 500-meter Kiyotaki Tunnel. Since we saw there's an old man walking through the tunnel, we thought it will be okay to walk through it. Well, despite the fact that we made it through the tunnel, I would suggest anyone to not do the same as me. Later I found that the Kiyotaki Tunnel is one of the most haunted places in Japan (!!!). Even if there's no ghost story surrounding it, I still not recommend anyone to walk in the tunnel because it's cold and dangerous (the tunnel was dark with limited lighting inside, I was praying hard car drivers won't hit me). 

After tunnel episode, we arrived in the preserved street of Arashiyama. There are some temples around here, including the famous Adashino Nenbutsu-ji, a mass burial sites for 8000 people. Oh yes, later on, I found that this area was once a battlefield. No wonder there were spooky stories surrounding the tunnel and around. 

Anyway, we were too tired to continue our walk to the Togetsukyo bridge of Arashiyama. We decided to walk directly to the nearest bus stop that will take us home. If you still have some energy to explore Arashiyama, not only Togetsukyo bridge or Bamboo Forest, the streets on the back side of Arashiyama is also a nice place to take a walk.

And that's all our hiking story! I can say I didn't regret at all having walked in total 12 km that day. The scenery, the refreshing air, the momiji - it's all worth it.

Love,

It's November already - it means yellow, orange, and red leaves are coming soon! Here are several spots in Kyoto that I've visited for momiji (maple leaves) viewing during the last three years. Hint: in Kyoto, the best time to enjoy autumn leaves is in the mid to late November. Don't miss it!

[Free Entrance]

1. Okazaki Park

Being one of my favourite spot in Kyoto, Okazaki Park offers a various color of autumn in one spot: the red of momiji, the oranye of sakura trees leaves, and the yellow of ginkgo trees are spread around the park. Starting from the back of Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art, there is a hidden spot where big maple leaves are lining up and create a beautiful vibrant color of autumn. Unfortunately, as of 2018 the trees are not in their best condition because of the museum's renovation. Hopefully it will gives its best color next year! If you go from east to west towards the street in front of Miyako Messe, there will be a red/oranye color of trees around you. Meanwhile, if you go south, you will find a yellow ginkgo trees lining up in front of Kyoto Prefectural Library. Best time to enjoy Okazaki Park is in the late afternoon, around 3-5 PM (sunset is at 5 PM during autumn). Please also note that the colours of trees in Okazaki Park are usually get its peak earlier than other spots. Come in the middle of November if you would like to enjoy autumn colours at its best here!

2. Kyoto University

You don't have to be a student to visit Kyoto University! In autumn, the campus is vibrant with colours, and in late November, they have annual November Festival that worth to visit. Go to Yoshida North Campus to see a lining yellow ginkgo trees, and feel free to walk around Yoshida main campus to Yoshida south campus to enjoy other autumn spots.

Kyoto Imperial Palace is an enchanting place in the middle of Kyoto city that worth to visit every season. In autumn, the red, yellow, and oranye colors of trees are blended in its huge park. For a best view of autumn, I usually enter the palace from the Imadegawa Gate (in front of Doshisha University) and walk to the west side of the palace. Enjoy the serene ambiance while having your eyes spoiled by beautiful fall colours around.

4. Arashiyama

One might say you haven't see the REAL autumn in Kyoto if you haven't go to Arashiyama. Arashiyama does have a magnificent colors in autumn - the green mountains turns into a gradation in colours, creating contrast with the turquoise-blue Katsura river underneath. However, be minded that Arashiyama in autumn can be REALLY CROWDED - the kind of crowded that can make you walking without really actually walking (you just flowing with the walking crowds - if you know what I mean). A friend of mine recommend the observation deck for you who wants to enjoy Arashiyama view at its best. You may also try riding Sagano Romantic Train from Saga-Arashiyama to Kameoka (620yen) for a splendid nature view. Those who have interest in cultural properties may enter Tenryu-ji Temple (500yen), a UNESCO World Heritage that has beautiful Japanese garden with autumn leaves around. For a first timer in Kyoto, I can say Arashiyama is a must-visit in autumn. 

5. Philosopher Path and around

Even though Philosopher Path in autumn is less scenic than its in spring, if you happen to be around Ginkaku-ji, don't miss the chance to explore some autumn spots around! The starting of Philosopher Path might not really scenic, but if you walk straight through the path, you will see more colors. You can either walk south following the path or walk north to the road leading to the hiking path of Daimonji - the gradation of the trees here are naturally beautiful.

[Paid Entrance]

1. Nanzen-ji

Probably one of temples that have a garden that large enough to be explored without have to pay an entrance fee. In autumn, trees in the front of Sanmon entrance gate turns red. Walk to the eastern side of the garden and you will find the aqueduct, another photo spot with lots of colourful trees around. But if you are looking for a more splendid scenery, go enter Tenjuan Temple (400 yen), one of the small temples inside Nanzen-ji. Although it is famous for the autumn light up, I personally suggest you to come in a daytime. Go walk to the back garden -the leaves are framing the garden and the gradation in the trees are reflected in a pond. It was quite a view to see!

2. Eikan-do

Different from Nanzen-ji, to enjoy autumn in Eikan-do, visitors must pay an entrance fee. No outer garden to be explored. However, a 600 yen fee will give you one of the most bursting autumn color in one place, so I would say the fee is worth it! If you are here after sunset, they have an autumn light up too.

3. Bishamon-do

A little secluded in the eastern area of Kyoto, there are two photo spots in Bishamon-do: the staircase leading to the temple and the inner part of the temple itself. To enter the temple, it costs 500yen. However, the surrounding road leading to Bishamon-do is actually also quite a view. The best time to snap a picture here is when the the momiji is already withered, most likely around late November / the first or second of December.

4. Kitano Tenmangu

While usually free for visitors, in autumn Kitano Tenmangu applies a special entrance fee for the momiji garden, which costs 700yen. When I visited the garden in the middle of November, the momiji are start changing - it's not in a peak colors yet. After walking around the garden, they serve free ocha at the rest area near the exit of the garden.

5. Genkoan 

Another secluded autumn spot that I have visited is Genkoan. Located in the northwest area of Kyoto city, there is only one bus that pass this area: Kyoto city bus no.6. The road leading to Genkoan itself is a very steep road, I would suggest not to ride a bicycle here. To enter Genkoan, a 400yen fee is required. Inside, it feels like entering a Japanese house with two big windows showing the beauty of autumn. Since the big window view can be really crowded, my suggestion is to sit in the edge of the house, enjoying momiji leaves falling. 

Bonus: Miho Museum, Shiga

For momiji hunters who wants to avoid the crowd, this museum is an off-beaten track that worth to visit. Miho Museum is located in Shiga, the neighbourhood prefecture of Kyoto. It costs 1100 yen to enter and one hour and half trip from Kyoto Station. The museum itself is about antique collection from all over the world - but the highlight in the autumn is more about the scenery surrounding the museum. Miho Museum entrance offers a serene ambiance and  a like-no-other architecture. Combine that with autumn colours, it was beautiful indeed.

Enjoy your autumn!

Love,